Fishing the River
RIVER CATCH RETURNS
A SEPARATE SYSTEM HAS BEEN INTRODUCED TO RECORD RIVER CATCH RETURNS.
THIS IN FUTURE WILL BE KEPT IN A
CATCH RETURNS BOX WHICH MAY BE FOUND ATTACHED
TO THE BACK OF THE RANCH FENCING IMMEDIATELY ON THE OPPOSITE FENCE TO THE
TICKET HUT BY THE FOOTBRIDGE OVER THE RIVER.
MEMBERS AND THEIR GUESTS FISHING THE RIVER ARE
REQUESTED TO ENTER THEIR NAMES AND GUEST TICKET
NUMBER BEFORE STARTING TO FISH AND TO COMPLETE
THEIR CATCH RETURN OR NIL RETURN AT THE END OF A
SESSION.
N.B. THE RIVER SEASON OPENS ON THE 1ST APRIL AND
CLOSES ON THE 30TH SEPTEMBER.
Members are reminded that after catching six fish from the lake they can now catch a further six fish from the river but of course catch and release.
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GUIDELINES FOR FISHING A CHALK STREAM
KAPS is lucky enough to have a stretch of a unique environment which is the Chalk Stream. However it is a fragile environment and needs to be looked after and approached in a very different way to the Lake. It should be fished in a way which ensures the least damage to the fish stocks, enjoyment for fellow fishermen and provides a successful and pleasurable way of catching Chalk Stream Trout. The secret of successful chalk stream fishing lies in concealment, detailed observation and delicate, accurate presentation. Ideally this should be to individual fish but may involve fishing likely holds if no fish are showing
The following principles of river fishing are simple, logical and based on common sense and should be adhered to at all times.
1. All fishing should be upstream or up and across if possible. Members may only flyfish with fly line using a river dry fly, wet fly or nymph. The artificial fly should always be a reasonable representation in size and outline of the insects the fish are likely to be feeding on.
2. It is a mistake to fish randomly and will only frighten fish. Delicate targeted presentation with the right tackle is the best approach. Ideally this should be to individual fish but may involve fishing likely holds if no fish are showing.
3. Fishermen should start at the lower end of a stretch and move in an upstream direction causing as little disturbance as possible. When walking up or down the river keep well away from the margins to avoid spooking fish. Remain hidden from fish whenever possible
4. Never cut in and start fishing above someone who is already fishing, except with the agreement of the other angler. Give a fisherman plenty of room as he may be watching a fish some distance away.
5. All hooks must be barbless or de-barbed and of a maximum size 12 (except for size 10 for Dry Mayfly imitations). Fishing small flies on light tackle is likely to bring the most success and enjoyment. A size 16 fly is best matched with a fine leader (6X).
6. All brown trout caught should be returned to the River. Try to avoid handling the fish and release as soon as possible.
7. All Members and their Guests* should sign in the River Catch Return before commencing to fish and enter their Catch (or Nil Return) before leaving. * Guest ticket No. should be shown in the comments column.
8. There is no Beat system on the River so please be considerate of other fishermen on the River. We would expect the stretch to accommodate a maximum of two fishermen at a time. It is always satisfying to catch fish but Chalk Stream fishing can have a steep learning curve and there will always be blank days even if you are experienced.
PLEASE RECORD YOUR VISIT TO THE RIVER WHETHER YOU CATCH OR NOT.
....and if you have any doubts as how to use the new river returns box here is an experienced member giving a demonstration
Fishing the river
Fly fishing the river can be a frustrating experience. There are trees and bushes to catch every back cast and fish are easily spooked. However it does offer some of the most rewarding and fascinating fishing and hopefully the following information will help you to get started if you haven’t fished it before. The leader set ups are the same as those described by Ben Ball & Richard Ball at the River Academy.
The Tackle
Rod – on our stretch of the river a 7 or 7 ½ ft 3/4 rod is ideal. You can get by with an 8 or 8 ½ ft rod but it will be more difficult with the overhanging trees.
Reel – just a small reel is needed. It’s only for holding the line so not particularly important.
Line – a weight forward floater is the best line to use. You could use a double taper floater but this may be more difficult to cast. An important point to bear in mind is that you will be casting very short distances and if you match the line to the rod as you are told to, i.e. a number 3 line with a 3 weight rod, you may not flex the rod properly and it may prove difficult to cast. A weight forward 4 or 5 line or even 6 with a 3/4 rod overcomes this problem and you can still get a delicate presentation. It is better to have a dull coloured line.
Leader – 6-7 ft is about right. You could use a knotless tapered leader or a made up tapered leader.
Ben Ball uses a Frog Hair knotless copolymer tapered leader cut back to 6ft with a Roman Moser 1mm ring attached. A tippet of Grand Max Soft Plus 5X/6.6lb or Stroft ABR is tied to this.
Richard Ball uses a Roman Moser braided leader between the fly line and leader. This helps with turnover and fly presentation. The leader itself is made from 3 lengths of Orvis Super Strong tied together with blood knots. The first section is 18” of 3x , the second 18” of 4x and the tip is 36” of 5 or 6x depending on the fly and fishing conditions. A small dry fly is best fished with a 6x tippet.
Other items you might find useful – floatant gel or powder for the dry flies (Ben uses Frog’s Fanny powder and Dilly Wax or Gink floatant, an amadou patch to dry flies, mucilin or similar to aid leader floatation, sinkant and degreaser for the leader (Orvis Mud or Fuller’s Earth mixed with washing up liquid).
Casting – you won’t need to cast any great distance but a cast needs to be accurate. River trout generally hold a position and a well placed cast may get a response. A cast a few inches away may not. Also you want to avoid getting caught on the bank or in a tree.
Casting straight away is a mistake. You need to consider the best cast, the obstacles you need to avoid and of course how you will target the trout. Every piece of water is different so needs to be approached in a different way. It is important to look at the current as any drag on a dry fly will put off fish.
Fishing the river is not about covering as much water as you can with continuous casting. The more you cast in one place, the less likely you are to catch. Fish will often take on the first cast so a well considered first cast is a good idea.
The side cast is probably the most useful as it means you can cast under the trees.
Approaching the river – you need to move cautiously and slowly so as not to spook the fish. If they know you are there they won’t take a fly. If you are wading try to cause as little disturbance as possible. Don’t slosh around.
Presentation – casting upstream will mean that you are approaching the fish from behind and presenting the flies as naturally as possible without any drag. The object is to place the fly a foot or two above a rising trout or where you expect a trout to be lying. If no fish are rising and you can’t tempt a fish to the surface, it’s time for a nymph. Fish may well be feeding on the bottom so a weighted nymph may be needed depending on water depth and conditions.
The cast and lift off need to be delicate so as not to warn the fish of your presence. If you smack the water with your line the chances are the fish will be spooked. It’s best not to lift off while your fly line is still in front of you.
Finding the fish – one of the key differences between the river and the lake is that the trout don’t cruise about in the river. They find a holding place and stay there so you need to move to them rather than staying in one place and the trout moving to you. Trout are going to be where the current brings food to them. This can often be right into the bank which makes accurate casting very important.
If insects are on the water and fish are rising it is much easier to find the fish. Otherwise it is a question of fishing the likely holds.
Flies
If you see a rise early in the season it may well be to a large dark olive. They have been rare in the past but do seem to have increased in the last couple of seasons since we have worked on the habitat. Good artificials for the dun are Kite’s Imperial and rough olive in sizes 16 or 18 fished with a fine tippet.
If nothing is showing, you are best to fish a nymph early season. A good choice would be a gold head pheasant tail or gold ribbed hare’s ear in sizes 14 or 16. Shrimp (Gammarus) are plentiful so a shrimp pattern such as the killer bug is useful. One of Ben’s favourite’s in Tex’s Little Devil.
For a general up wing fly Ben uses an Adams.
Around the third week in May the mayfly (Epherema Danica) start to hatch. This is our largest upwing fly which provides a seasonal feast for the birds and ducks as well as the fish. On the southern chalkstreams the hatching period is known as duffers’ fortnight because the trout are supposedly easy to catch. Not always true though. The mayfly on the Darent can hatch through to August but the trout won’t always rise to them.
The mayfly can provide very exciting dry fly fishing. You need to use a heavier leader (5x) to help turn over the relatively large flies (size 10 or 12). Mayfly patterns are legion but the French Partridge, Oliver Edwards Mohican and Grey Wulff are reliable patterns.
Terrestials such as the black gnat (size 16 or 18) and daddy long legs (size 10 or 12) later in the season are also useful patterns.
If you don’t tie your own, Fulling Mill offer a range of good quality flies.